Wisdom from the Sacred Heart of the World: A Photographer's Journey with the Kogui People

Writer Serena Mitchell speaks to Colombian photographer Javier Vanegas about his profound connection with the ancient Kogi tribe and the lessons they hold for our modern world.

Setting the scene: How a black jaguar led me to Colombia

In summer 2024, I found myself, by serendipity, at a sound journey session in Brighton led by Colombian sound healer, musician, curandero, working with traditional medicines like tobacco and coca leaf, teacher of the medicine wheel and Musica wisdom carrier Anthar Kharana. Anthar has worked between the UK and Colombia for many years. In this very first sound journey with him, I experienced a profound vision of walking with the black jaguar in the jungle, which subsequently led me to discover the teachings of the Kogui people of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta (Sacred Heart of the World), where the Andes mountain range meets the Caribbean sea in North Colombia. Following the call of the jaguar and of the land itself, I signed up for Anthar’s two-week Colombian retreat in February this year, which ended on ancestral Kogui lands on the beach near the Tairona National Park at Santa Marta.

When I arrived in Bogota before the start of the retreat, I visited many museums, including the Museo Del Oro, the gold museum, which holds thousands of gold ritual and ceremonial artefacts made by the different peoples across Colombia, including the Kogui. The British Museum holds some Kogui gold in its collection, too. Whilst it is remarkable to be able to view these stunning objects, they were not made for museum collections. They were crafted as offerings to the land, to the ancestors and the spirit realms. Sadly, since the time of the Spanish Conquistadors, they have been stolen from their original ritual and intended sites. On my Bogota walkabout, I stumbled, also by synchronicity, into ‘Aluna’ a photography exhibition by Javier Vanegas at the Museo de Arte Colonial. Aluna is the cosmic great mother creator force in Kogui cosmology.

Seeing this beautiful exhibition firsthand provided me with a visual and artistic context for the Kogui worldview and the collaborative process Javier engaged in with them to create the work. This, in turn, deepened my connection to the Kogui and their message for us ‘Younger Brother’ before my intensive experience in Colombia on retreat. I was fortunate to be able to interview Javier at his Bogota studio before I flew home to the UK.

In this feature interview, Javier recounts his six-year collaboration with the Kogui initiated by a personal search for spiritual healing. His initial connection stemmed from an exchange of photographic knowledge with a Kogui photographer, Francisco, son of a Mamo (spiritual leader). Javier describes learning about the Kogui worldview, which emphasises a deep connection with nature and the necessity of reciprocal exchange with the Earth, contrasting it with Western capitalist exploitation. The collaboration organically evolved, aiming to bridge ancestral knowledge and contemporary society through photography, exemplified by his "Aluna” exhibition. Javier discusses the Kogui's perspective on technology as a neutral tool depending on its use, their profound respect for elders as keepers of wisdom passed down through oral tradition and ceremonies, and their compassionate understanding of death as a transition, maintaining spiritual connection with loved ones. Ultimately, Javier reflects on the lessons learned from the Kogui, highlighting the importance of living with compassion, gratitude, and a recognition of our interconnectedness with nature.

---

Serena: Javier, it's a privilege to speak with you. Your exhibition, 'Aluna', really resonated with me. Could you tell us about how your collaboration with the Kogui began?

Javier: It wasn't art or photography that initially drew me to the Sierra Nevada. I was seeking a spiritual retreat, a spiritual path, a time for personal healing after a difficult period. Arriving back in Colombia after living in Spain, I felt disconnected. My personal goal was healing, and it was this journey that then led to other relationships and connections. There was an initial stage of recognition, exchange, and sharing of words to understand the Kogui worldview. It became essential to acknowledge that our Western perception of reality is quite limited. As someone raised Catholic, I only understood one way of seeing the world.

This meeting with the Kogi offered a worldwide range of options for understanding my existence. To even partially grasp their connection with nature, I had to deconstruct my perception of the world.

Serena: Some of our readers may be familiar with the BBC documentaries featuring the Kogui and their concept of 'Aluna' – the spiritual world that underpins our physical reality. How did you come to understand this crucial aspect of their philosophy?

Javier: Through spending time with them, living as part of their community. You can't truly understand their ways unless you immerse yourself. I spent weeks with them, fishing, washing, eating, working. In that process, with the building of trust, I almost disappeared as a photographer. People forgot I was taking pictures of their daily lives.

The concept of Aluna is central. As you mentioned, it highlights the interconnectedness of all things and the crucial need for reciprocity. We take from the earth, but we must give back in return. The Kogui understanding of gold, for example, is not about material wealth as we perceive it. For them, it’s a gift back to the earth, worked into a beautiful piece with sacred meaning as an offering. Seeing those gold artifacts in museums, I felt they should be back in the ground, in the places they were created for. Our colonial capitalist way of take, take, take, without giving back is causing the planet to suffer. The Kogui see us as the 'Younger Brother' who is out of balance. Their way of living is so in tune with their natural surroundings.

Serena: You mentioned building trust. I understand there was a particular task involved in that process?

Javier: Yes, the Mamo (spiritual leader) asked me to create a narrative of my life and how I came to be there. At the same time, he was observing how open my heart was. After a ceremony, Francisco, the Mamo’s son and my first Kogui friend who is also a photographer, gave me the nickname ‘aseguranza'. This object shows that you have been welcomed and protected by the sacred. The Mamo can see the intention of your heart, and without good intentions, you won't be allowed into the community.

(In general Spanish, "aseguranza" is not a common word and is considered an Anglicism, an influence of the English "assurance" or "insurance." The correct and generally used word in Spanish to refer to insurance is "seguro" (insurance), and "aseguradora" (insurance company) refers to the company that offers it.)

Serena: Your exhibition features striking images, including those developed onto actual cocoa leaves. Could you explain the significance of this plant for the Kogui?

Javier: Firstly, it’s vital to distinguish between the coca leaf (jañú) and cocaine, which are entirely different worlds. For me, as a Colombian deeply affected by the history of violence linked to cocaine production, highlighting the true value and symbolic importance of this plant, which has guided indigenous communities for centuries, was a way of healing that history.

Jañú, the coca leaf, has been a power plant for the Kogui for centuries. It assists the guardians of the territory for the Mother Creator, Hava. This plant is fundamental to their belief system; without it, the whole system would fall apart. Historically, the Spanish understood this connection and prohibited its use. The Kogui believe the plant is like 'Wi-Fi', the device that makes the connection with Mother Nature.

Another key concept is 'goné', which means 'to weave'. They weave everything – the family, the house, their bags (mochilas), the roof. The images created with the coca leaves are also a weave, often resembling mandalas, made with the hands of women. This process connected ancestral knowledge with my Western perspective and photographic techniques.

Serena: The exhibition also touches on the Kogui view of time. Could you elaborate on that?

Javier: The Kogui do not experience time as a linear progression but as a spiral. They believe knowledge advances in a spiritual path. Some of the images in the exhibition were created using artificial intelligence to represent this concept, envisioning eight universes as they believe we live in nine – one physical and four above and four below, connected with spiritual, timeless, and spaceless realms.

Serena: In our Western society, and I’m speaking about the UK in particular, the wisdom of elders is sometimes overlooked. What is the role of elders in the Kogui community?

Javier: Elders are fundamentally the keepers of knowledge and the words. Since the Kogui have no written language, oral transmission is essential, making the older generation crucial for preserving their belief system. These wise holders are deeply respected within the community. What I learned is that these are not necessarily strict, normative figures. Mama Augustine, for example, is quite playful and funny, but her charismatic way of speaking about life reminds you of its transient nature and imparts knowledge you can't gain in a university. They offer tools for navigating our human experience with more compassion for ourselves and others.

Wisdom is passed down in various ways, often in ceremonies called 'circle words'. In these gatherings, people share and open their hearts to discuss social matters, traditions, or stories about their cosmology. There's a specific posture of respect – sitting with legs open, not crossed, to signify openness to receiving knowledge. When making payments to sacred lagoons, the Mamos sit in a spot called 'Ezuama', energetic places for connecting with Mother Nature, while others sit around them, meditating and presenting offerings.

Serena: The Kogui perspective on death seems very different from the often fear-based views in the West. What did you learn about their understanding of death and dying?

Javier: This was something that deeply resonated with me, especially having lost my mother at a young age and grown up with the often fearful Christian narrative around death. The Kogui don't have a word equivalent to 'goodbye'. Their view offers more compassion, seeing death as a transition to another dimension where connection with loved ones continues. They believe that butterflies and bats are messengers from different dimensions. Children are taught that they don't lose connection with those who have passed; they are still present and can be felt. This connection isn't limited to ceremonies; it can happen at any moment. Understanding this shifted my feelings about passing away, knowing that I will still be connected with and perhaps even guide my loved ones in a different way.

They bury their dead and hold ceremonies. For men who are considered adults in the community, there's a special tradition involving the 'poporo', a gourd they carry that holds their knowledge through the coca leaf. Upon death, they are buried with their poporo, which serves as a testament to their human experience. In cases of tragic death, specific rituals help the soul travel freely. They also have ceremonies to honour children who die before birth, acknowledging their connection and the teachings they bring.

Serena: Finally, Javier, what has been the greatest lesson you have learned from your work with the Kogui?

Javier: It's difficult to pinpoint just one thing. Perhaps it's learning to walk through life in a lighter, more compassionate way. Knowing that we are an extension of Mother Nature, and feeling her suffering, naturally leads to being more careful with resources and taking time to be grateful for what we take. This fundamental lesson has profoundly changed my perspective.

It's important to remember that the Kogui are human, with the same range of emotions as us. They are not some idealised other. But their ancient knowledge and deep connection with Mother Nature hold invaluable lessons for us. They have tools and practices to remind the 'Younger Brothers' of this connection. Learning from them and spreading this awareness is a kind of duty. We are a single consciousness, and fostering this awakening is vital for finding balance again.

Serena: Javier, your insights are deeply thought-provoking. Thank you for sharing your extraordinary experience with the Kogui people. Your work serves as a powerful reminder of the wisdom held by ancient cultures that have not been so disrupted by colonialism and modern society. It also reminds us, ‘Younger Brother’, of the urgent need to reconnect with the natural world, lessons that are particularly pertinent as we navigate the later chapters of our lives and consider the legacy we leave behind. It’s been great to discover your work and understand it better through our conversation.

The exhibition Aluna is at the Museo Colonial, Bogota until 27 April 2025.

About Javier

Javier Vanegas (b. 1984, Bogotá, Colombia) is a critically acclaimed visual artist, photographer, and educator whose work sits at the intersection of contemporary image-making, ancestral wisdom, and decolonial critique. With a background in Fine Arts from the prestigious Universidad de los Andes in Bogotá, he deepened his academic practice with a Master’s in Art and Creation Research at the Universidad Complutense de Madrid, supported by a full scholarship from the Carolina Foundation. He is currently completing a Ph.D. in Fine Arts at the same institution, specializing in photography and the philosophical implications of the image.

Vanegas’s artistic journey began with his solo debut at the Bogotá Museum of Modern Art (MAMBO) and quickly gained international momentum. His work has been shown at renowned institutions and festivals across Europe and the Americas, including MACRO (Museum of Contemporary Art of Rome), PhotoEspaña (Madrid), Fotográfica Bogotá, and the international photography festival Photo:ISrael, where he represented Colombia in 2021 and 2022. In 2023, he was awarded Colombia’s National Photography Prize, a national honour recognising his outstanding contribution to the field.

Javier's photographs are more than visual compositions—they are critical inquiries into the performance of photography itself. Through series such as Tempus Fugit and VIP, Vanegas examines the "parergon" (or frame) of the photographic device and challenges the colonised gaze that shapes much of global visual culture today. At the heart of his work is a sustained engagement with the ancestral knowledge systems of Indigenous peoples, especially the Kogui of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Their cosmology and relationship to time, territory, and balance deeply inform his evolving visual language.

Beyond his exhibitions in São Paulo, London, Miami, New York, Madrid, Lima, and Caracas, Vanegas has participated in biennials in Paraguay and Brazil and published essays on contemporary photography in Colombia. His academic career includes teaching appointments at Universidad de los Andes, Pontificia Universidad Javeriana, and currently, Universidad Jorge Tadeo Lozano, where he trains the next generation of photographers to think critically about image, narrative, and power.

In a world saturated with imagery, Vanegas’s work invites us to pause, reflect, and reimagine the act of seeing through lenses that honour both rigorous artistic inquiry and the wisdom of those who have safeguarded memory long before the photograph was invented.

---

More information on the Kogui People

The Kogui transmit their ancestral knowledge through several key methods, primarily relying on oral tradition due to their lack of a written language. This crucial role is held by the elders, who are considered the keepers of knowledge and the words, making them essential for preserving their belief system.

The Kogui transmit their ancestral knowledge: in various ways

● Oral Transmission: The most fundamental method is the direct sharing of knowledge and stories through spoken words across generations. This ensures the continuity of their traditions, cosmology, and history.

● 'Circle Words' (Ceremonies): Knowledge is often passed down during ceremonial gatherings known as 'circle words'. These are respectful spaces where individuals share and discuss social matters, traditions, and stories about their cosmology, fostering a collective understanding. The manner of participation, such as sitting with legs open as a sign of receptiveness, is also culturally significant.

● Ceremonial Practices: During ceremonies and rituals, particularly those involving payments or offerings to sacred sites like lagoons, the Mamos (spiritual leaders) play a central role in transmitting knowledge. Their actions and pronouncements during these events embody and communicate ancestral wisdom to the community members present.

● Spiritual Connection ('Real Wi-Fi'): The Kogi believe in a spiritual network or 'Wi-Fi' that holds profound knowledge accessible to humankind. They guide their actions based on the insights gained from connecting with this network, suggesting a form of intuitive or spiritual transmission of knowledge.

● Early Childhood Education: From a young age, children are taught core beliefs, such as the continued presence and connection with ancestors through messengers like butterflies and bats. This early integration of their worldview ensures the foundational principles are instilled from childhood.

● The 'Poporo': For men who are considered adults, the 'poporo', used in conjunction with the coca leaf, serves as a personal repository of knowledge and life experiences. As the 'poporo' is buried with the man upon his death, it acts as a physical testament to his accumulated wisdom.

● Living within the Community: As Javier experienced, living within the Kogui community and participating in daily life – fishing, washing, eating, and working alongside them – is a crucial way to understand their worldview. This immersive experience allows for the gradual absorption of their knowledge and ways of connecting with nature.

Through these interconnected methods, the Kogui maintain and transmit their rich ancestral knowledge, ensuring its survival across generations.